Happy Pancake Day/Mardi Gras/Fastnacht Day (if you are from Pennsylvania)! Pain d’epices is a French gingerbread from Dijon, and I thought it might translate well into pancake form. It’s not too sweet, deep and spicy, with brightness from orange zest.

Pain d’épices pancakes

Yield: 8-10 medium-sized pancakes

1 1/2 cups spelt flour

1/2 cup rye flour

1 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. baking soda

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ginger

1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

1/8 tsp. white pepper

1/8 tsp. ground aniseed (optional)

1 tsp. freshly grated orange zest

2 tsp. honey (wildflower, orange blossom, clover, whatever you like)

1 egg

1 tbsp. melted butter, plus extra for cooking

1 cup milk

1/4 cup buttermilk

In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder and soda, spices, and orange zest. Make a well in the middle, and add the honey, egg, melted butter, milk and buttermilk and whisk to combine. Melt a little butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Cook pancakes until a few bubbles form, then flip and cook for another minute or two until done. Serve with butter and honey. Laissez les bon temps rouler!

If you ever have the chance to, you must go to Croatia. It’s a truly stunning country with water unlike any I’d seen before, so much history to explore, incredible people to meet, and simple, yet lovely food. The air was full of thyme, oregano, figs, and salt water. I had so many memorable meals, and anyone whom I’ve talked to about it has known that it left a big impression upon me. The first Croatian meal I had was a savory pastry, a burek, on the flight from Zürich to Split, served with wine (heaven!) while being dazzled by the teal ringed-islands that began to appear below. Upon landing, the airport was surrounded by an olive grove, and I knew I’d come to a place I would love.

My mother’s cuisine involves the Armenian version of this, an Ottoman creation that followed them through Europe and the Middle East. I was inspired by the flavors I had in subsequent days in Split, on the islands of Hvar and Korçula, in Dubrovnik, and in Montenegro, and devised my twist on this classic. The combined scent of thyme and oregano is inexplicably Croatian to me now, and these baking took me right back.

Croatian butternut squash and cheese burek

Yield: 8

2/3 cup butternut squash purée (see note)

1/3 cup of fresh ricotta, drained of excess liquid

1/2 cup finely grated paski sir (a Croatian hard cheese that is fairly available in the US)

1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

1/3 tsp. dried oregano

1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

1/2 tsp. sea salt

1/3 tsp. white pepper

1 lb. puff pastry, thawed

1 egg, lightly beaten

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Combine the squash purée, cheeses, olive oil, herbs, salt, and pepper in a bowl until light and fluffy. Set aside. Lightly flour a work surface and roll out the puff pastry. Cut into eight rectangles, and fill each with about a tablespoon of the squash mixture. Fold over and crimp with a fork to seal the edges. Brush the tops with the beaten egg, and bake for approximately 20 minutes or until a deep golden brown and flaky.

Note: If you are making your own squash purée, be sure to let it drain of excess liquid after roasting and puréeing.

An afternoon swim on the island of Korçula.